Step by Step: Mac Pro Processor Upgrade

| How-To

My primary workstation is a 2009 8-core Mac Pro.  When I purchased the machine about two and a half years ago, I knew I wanted eight cores but at the time I could only afford the 2.26GHz option and 6GB of RAM.  As one of Apple’s few remaining “upgradeable” line of computers, I hoped to upgrade the processors and RAM in the future.  Back in June, with the impending launch of Final Cut Pro X and the increasing number of other high-performance applications that seemed to be running slower and slower on my Mac Pro, I knew the time had come to perform the upgrade I had planned.

I’d like to take the time to mention here that everything discussed in this article, except for the RAM upgrade, most definitely voids your warranty.  In my case, the warranty had expired so I had nothing to lose in that department.  But if you choose to follow my lead and upgrade your own Mac Pro, please understand that you do so at your own risk.

Now, down to business.  The upgrade would come in two phases: RAM and CPU.  The RAM would be simple, but I knew the CPU upgrade would be a challenge and that there was a risk that I could irrevocably damage my Mac.  Considering the options, I decided to accept the risk and move forward with the upgrade.

Inside the Mac Pro

Apple’s support article explains everything you need to know about RAM upgrades.

I started with the easy part, and ordered 24GB (6x4GB) of RAM from Other World Computing.  The price at the time was $320.  This was back in June.  Prices have now dropped even further, and the same 6x4GB configuration of RAM now costs only $244 as of the date of this article.  The Mac Pro RAM is surprisingly easy to upgrade, second in ease perhaps only to the Mac Mini.  It is a completely tool-less process and requires only removing the side panel from the computer, and then removing the processor tray from the bottom.  Apple Support Article HT4433 helped explain the process, but for those familiar with hardware upgrades it is a very straightforward procedure.

For the processors, I decided to go “all out” and get the highest performance processor I could find.  That would be the Xeon W5590 at 3.33GHz.  These processors still retail at a ridiculously high price, between $1500 and $1800 each, but there is thankfully a robust market of used processors on sites such as eBay.  I admit that I was a bit hesitant to purchase used processors, but after some research I found a seller with excellent ratings and an equally excellent price: $1200 for the pair of processors.  They may be used, but at 66% off the retail price, I couldn’t say no.

Intel Xeon processor

The Intel Xeon Processor.

The first challenge I faced was improper tools.  The Mac Pro’s CPU heatsinks are surprisingly held in place with common 3mm hex screws.  The only problem is that the screws are recessed about three inches into the heatsink, and I had no hex wrench long enough to reach the screw.  A late-night trip to the local hardware store solved the problem, and I recommend purchasing the longest hex wrench set you can find before beginning this process. 

The screws themselves are spring-mounted, so simply loosen them slowly until you feel them pop up.  Once all four screws are removed per heatsink, carefully lift the heatsink up, detaching it from the connector on the logic board that controls fan and thermal settings.  Be careful to note that the processor will likely be stuck with thermal paste to the bottom of the heatsink and will lift off when you remove it.  Quickly turn the heatsink upside down to prevent the processor from coming loose and falling (although in my case the thermal paste acted almost as glue and it took quite a bit of force to detach it).  Repeat for the second heatsink.  Be sure to make note of which heatsink goes to which socket, as they are not interchangeable. 

With the heatsinks and processors removed, I set about cleaning off the old thermal paste from both parts.  There are specialized cleaners for this task, but I’ve found that a clean microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol do the job just fine.  Just be careful not to overuse the rubbing alcohol and have some spill over onto other parts of the system.

Lidless Mac Pro CPU

A lidless CPU like those in the 8-core Mac Pro.

With the parts cleaned, I opened the package containing the new processors and the first thing I took note of was the drastic difference in appearance between the chips.  The stock chips used on the 8-core Mac Pro are lidless, meaning the metal cap used for protection that is recognizable on most chips is not present and the core of the chip is directly exposed.  I feared this may cause two issues: first, because the chips I was installing were lidded, the extra height of the lid might not allow the heatsink and CPU to sit properly in the socket; second, the Mac Pro was thermally designed for lidless chips and the lidded chips might cause temperatures to rise too high.  Both concerns proved to be immaterial in the end, although special consideration had to be paid to ensure that this was the case.

I started with “CPU A” and placed the processor into the socket.  After applying new thermal paste (I used Arctic Cooling’s MX-2) to the CPU, I slowly lowered the heatsink into place, ensuring that the fan/thermal connector was lined up properly.  I then began to slowly tighten the hex screws that hold the heatsink in place.  Because the new CPU was slightly thicker than the old one due to its lid, I wanted to tighten the screws a little at a time until I was sure that the heatsink was tight and secure, but not so tight as to cause damage to the socket.  This turned out to be about five turns of each screw, performed corner-to-corner to ensure that one side did not over-tighten and skew the chip’s orientation.

The 8-core Mac Pro can run with just a single processor installed, so I quickly put the computer back together to test my installation before attempting to replace the second CPU.  To my relief, the system booted up just fine and System Profiler showed that a single 3.32GHz (not quite sure why the processor reports itself as 3.32 instead of 3.33GHz) processor was installed.  Satisfied, I shut down and dismantled the computer again to install the second CPU, repeating the steps above.

With both CPUs installed, I booted the machine and again it booted fine, but I noticed a problem: the fan on the second CPU (identified in the system as “Booster B”) was running at full speed despite normal temps on the processor.  I was quite concerned that I had damaged something and began fearing for the worst: a lifetime of listening to a jet engine under my desk (those with Mac Pros know just how loud our machines can get when the fans go full speed).

I shut down and disassembled the system again.  I decided to try removing and reattaching the second heatsink in hopes that it would solve the issue.  Sure enough, as I reattached the heatsink I noticed that the fan/thermal connector “clicked” into place a little better than it had before and when I rebooted the system, the problem was solved.


My “new” Mac Pro.

With both processors installed, I decided to do some stress testing to ensure that both the used processors were still fully operational and that I hadn’t messed up anything else during installation.  There are many ways to stress test a Mac but my new favorite method is using Primate Labs’ cross-platform benchmark tool GeekBench.  Starting with version 2.2.0, GeekBench includes a stress test option in the “Benchmarks” menu.  I let that test run for several hours and thankfully received no errors.  My other previously mentioned concern was operating temperatures and I was happy to see that my temperatures only rose about 3℃ over the operating temperatures of the stock processors, a noticeable but completely acceptable result.

Now confident that the hardware I installed was “good,” I set about to find out just how much performance I had gained for my money.  Turning again to the aforementioned GeekBench, I ran the test three times and averaged my results.  Before the upgrades, my GeekBench Score was a respectable 13958.  After the upgrade, my score jumped to 20643, an approximately 48% increase in performance.  By contrast, a top-of-the-line Mid 2010 12-core Mac Pro at 2.93GHz with 24GB of RAM scores 24730, but costs $7300.


My upgraded Mac Pro goes a long way towards bridging the gap between a base 2009 model and a top-end 2010 model.

In the end, I spent about $1500 and brought my Mac Pro back up to speed with the current generation.  The performance increase has been noticeable in everything from day-to-day usage to Final Cut Pro X rendering.  Considering the high cost of a 2010 Mac Pro (and whether we’ll even get a 2011 Mac Pro), I am quite happy with the end result.  The only tools needed are a long 3mm hex wrench, some thermal paste, and time.

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You have guts.
I had a 2006 Mac Pro up until my 2010 SSD iMac. I looked into this a number of times, but each time I did the financials just didn’t work out. The processors are just too expensive new, and I didn’t want to take a chance spending that much money on used parts.
Buying new, I would have spent more than the difference in buying a new machine and selling my old one. Buying used, it would have been close. Not close enough to take the risk of bad used parts or something else failing on the machine within the next year.
I’m glad to see your article though. You stuck it to the “Upgrade Nazis”.

Ross Edwards

and whether we?ll even get a 2011 Mac Pro

That’s what scares me! Stop potentially being right! smile

I’ve been sitting here like a thirsty man in the desert who has had six straight days of overcast and no rain.  The existing Pro is over a year old, and Apple hasn’t announced a new product of any kind since early July!  My three-year-old iMac has been a trooper, but it’s getting too long in the tooth for the work I do and is soon to become the wife’s web box.  The early 2011 T-bolt iMacs look great, but the market price of SSD has fallen a lot since March, and you just KNOW there’s an iMac refresh due any day now where I could get an SSD for the OS and a nice fat HDD for internal storage and video scratch work and not pay the price of a 1998 Honda Accord for the lot. 

Moreover, my performance needs have increased to where a jump up to the Mac Pro needs to be considered, and you can put whatever the hell hard drives you want into that.  And who knows if the “product transition” includes some sort of deprecation of the Pro in favor of the Mythical Mac Mid-tower, which might be even MORE appropriate for what I do.

Having said that, a quick Googlearound suggests the Sandy Bridge-E chipset ships for general users on 11/15 and Apple would be able to introduce new models of Mac with that processor up to a month sooner, so my wait COULD be down to a matter of weeks, as opposed to “indefinitely.”

Come on, Cupertino!  10/4 is almost upon us, but if it’s only iOS and iOS hardware, I’m still stuck!  Little help?!


You Sir are a braver soul then I.

And it’s a danged shame I only got the Quad 2.66 Early 2009 Mac Pro


Off Topic: Where do you have 10.7.2(!) from? Any issues with the patch?


Jim Tanous

Where do you have 10.7.2(!) from? Any issues with the patch?

It’s part of the Macintosh Developer Program.  That’s all I can say, unfortunately.


I’m in the middle of updating the same machine. You wrote that you’ve used a W55 Xeon instead of a X56? As far as I understand the W xeons are fr single use only is tat correct?

Jim Tanous

I’m in the middle of updating the same machine. You wrote that you’ve used a W55 Xeon instead of a X56? As far as I understand the W xeons are fr single use only is tat correct?

No, the letter designations primarily distinguish the chips based on TDP, with the W series having a max TDP of 130 watts and the X series at, I believe, 95 watts. Both will work in dual-processor configurations.

Jim Tanous

I’m in the middle of updating the same machine. You wrote that you’ve used a W55 Xeon instead of a X56? As far as I understand the W xeons are fr single use only is tat correct?

Sorry, after reading your question again, it looks like you’re mixing up two generations of Xeon processors. For my upgrade, I used 2008 Gainestown-based CPUs, where the W series is the highest TDP and performs better over the X series. (W5590)

It seems you’re referring to the X series from the 2010 Gulftown and Westmere-EP parts. In this lineup, the W series is at 130W TDP, but is limited to a single 6-core CPU, while the X series offers 4- and 6-core models between 95W and 130W. If you’re going with this generation of Xeons, then yes, you’ll need the X series to do dual-CPU configurations.

Please note that this article was written in 2011, and I haven’t kept pace with specific processor developments since then. At the time, the Gainestown W5590 was the best CPU available for the 2009 Mac Pro. I am not sure if the Gulftown X series are compatible, so make sure you verify that before you buy.

Good luck!


Hi there,

I have the same Mac Pro 2 x 2.26GHz (CPU’s), I made 3 upgrades so far. 1. VelociRaptor 1TB HDD 2. 96GB of Memory 3. NVIDIA Quadro 4000 video card.

I was looking to upgrade my CPU’s but I was under the impression that this Mac Pro was only able to support the Intel Xeon 2.93GHz Processor X5570.

But after reading your article it seem like the Intel Xeon 3.33GHz Processor W5590 is a better option. I found matching pair of CPU’s on eBay for $400.

I believe this is probably the highest speed of CPU available for this model of Mac Pro. The CPU still retails for $1000.

Jasper van den Brink

Hi, did you use 2mm thickness of thermal pad in the contact area of the voltage regulators? Thanks

barry johns

Well this is my first post, I joined the forum to talk about my upgrade of a 2009 8 Core MacPro to a 12 Core.

CPU Choice - x5680

First let me say this…..I am confident that most people who say not to attempt to DeLid Soldered CPU’s are simply regurgitating other peoples fears and likely have no first hand experience. It is so insanely easy, its almost criminal that people who are packaging DeLided CPU’s with the Thermal Past, Thumb Drive, and cleaner, then marking it up over 300.00 over buying the parts separately and DeLiding the CPU it yourself.

Step 1 - Use the Vice Method (NO HAMMER).

I personally took it one step further, but in hindsight, it was not necessary. I took an exacto blade and cut into the corner sections of the IHS where they are Siliconed to the CPU. I barely cut into each corner.I applied pressure in the vice, let it set for a minute, then applied a little more pressure, let it set for a minute.

Took the CPU/IHS out of the vice, turned it 1/4, then repeated the previous steps. Then took it out, took it back 1/4 turn (Original Starting Location) applied pressure, a little at a time until I started to see the IHS slide on top of the CPU, then took it out of the Vice and slid it by hand the rest of the way off.

The Vice Only method was a piece of cake.

Full discolor, right after Deliding the fist CPU, I was in a terrified moment for a while because, especially on the first CPU there was a ton of Solder that had to be removed. As I was scraping it off with a Utility Knife Blade, visually it seemed like I was cutting into the Die that is on top of the CPU, but that’s not what it was, it was the Solder that made it look that way. It took me about 15 minutes per CPU to scrape off the old Solder and clean up the Silicone that is around the CPU.

Just as a precaution, I decided to just DeLid one CPU, then install it to confirm I didn’t damage it prior to going head over heels by DeLiding both. This way, if I did screw it up, I only had to buy one CPU to replace and not two. Remember, because this was new to me, I still at this point was not sure if my decision to DeLid verses wait for the Washers and Thermal Paste to arrive was the right one.

After DeLiding the first CPU, I installed it in CPU A slot on the tray, with no CPU in CPU B Slot. This was my test to see if I damaged my CPU or not.

I installed the first CPU in CPU A slot, left CPU B out. It booted up right away revealing that I had a 6 Core CPU in the computer. Note: With just one CPU in the A Slot, after competing booting, it’s normal for all the Fans to blow at full speed. They will go back to normal behavior once you have the second CPU installed. So don’t panic when you hear the fans blowing full speed!

So off to DeLiding CPU number 2, put it in, same steps as the first, and BAM. No more fans, all is great.

Typing this on my new

12 Core

Check out my new Geekbench scores, 32 bit and 64 bit scores!!!!!!!

27,492 - 32 Bit
30,377 - 64 Bit

Only 6gb Ram when testing, but I now have 24gb the faster RAM on the way!

Forget the Washers, Forget the Thermal Pad, Forget Clipping the Fan Connector

Delid and be done, it’s so easy!!!!

barry johns

Link to the Hammer Method.

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